Presenting in the spectacular Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Freemason’s Hall, I managed to drag my weary bones from Somerset House for a highly anticipated collection from Zeynep Tosun. Well, with our own Faye declaring “that’ll be well good” first thing this morning, you can see where my excitement has come from.
But in all seriousness, Zeynep Tosun’s collection really is something to be excited about. With a career that began with Alberta Ferreti in 2006 leading right up until last season with her House of Evolution showcase, Tosun has both the knowledge of experience and youthful brand development that makes for an intriguing collection. Having covered House of Evolution myself last season, Tosun’s brand identity is recognisable yet increasingly innovative. With Autumn’s burgundy hues, prints and metallic eyes all cementing themselves as key season details this year, I have a good feeling that Tosun has an eye for detail and an understanding of what’s to come. Now I’m excited.
Dominated by the European and Asian influences of Istanbul, her birthplace, her collections are generally characterized by high expressiveness and many contrasts, be that in material, colour, texture or style. This eclectic mix is no exception this season in a collection that boasts floaty chiffon desert cool in perfect unison romantic sheers, stark monochrome and gorgeously intricate prints. With so many clashing elements fused into one display, you’re lucky not to end up with a hot mess. However Zeynep, in her unique way, pulls it off.
Kick starting proceedings with Equestrian inspired caps and quilted white jackets, strapped at the neck, there is an immediate contrast between bondage and beauty as a clean, feminine cut is given a tough yet sophisticated grunge edge. Inspired by our recent Olympic success perhaps? No, probably not. However the sporting theme continues as luxe racer fronts and metallic side-stripe trousers merge into more characteristically Springtime florals yet, as is the way it should be, there is something fresh about the design. Intricately weaving themselves up the body, flowers depart from the legs to entwine with the body. With crisp whites accentuated by mint greens and lilacs, soon comes the golden sands of the desert as pieces take a new direction. Hoods turn to hats and outfits are topped off with oodles of chunky silver in the form of chokers, a signature metal it seems for the designer. This truly is a collection of many dimensions.
All in all, after an array of metallics and prints, contrasting cuts and imaginative accessories, I suppose there’s only one way to describe the works. Yes Faye, it was well good.