Hosted in the lovely Terrace Rooms at Somerset House, the Fashion East and NEWGEN MEN installation offers a platform to the brightest menswear talent at London Fashion Week. Sixteen designers showed in total, and Who’s Jack selected some of our favourite A/W11-12 collections seen on the day.
Matthew Miller
Focusing on ‘humanism versus naturalism,’ Miller presented a collection of sharp, classic looks, using a pallate of bright block colours set against muted tones and highly functional shapes. The detailing took influence from mountaineering gear, utilising carabiners as buckles, and climbing rope as belts on garments or handles on tote style backpacks. Miller continued the idea through to the print work with bright orange roping on leggings and t-shirts or patterning on knitwear. A stand-out collection.
DR. NOKI’s – NHS
DR. NOKI returned this season with a strong collection. Pieces kept in line with the NOKI concept of customisation, with two-tone black and denim jackets and structured waistcoats. Designer and stylist, Judy Blame, created jewellery using buttons, material and bejewelled metal strips which could as easily be incorporated into the womenswear collection. The look kept to the ‘NOKI-NOIR’ concept for the season, offering an impactive, dark aesthetic.
Agi & Sam
The design duo went for colour and fun this season. Models had their faces painted in bright, distorted clown like guises, whilst the collection took inspiration from mainstream hip-hop in the ’90s. The looks focused on bomber jackets, casual tuxes, cropped trouser and t-shirts, in clashing prints and colours. Tongue in cheek references such as an image of Will Smith were emblazoned across t-shirts, giving the collection a playful edge.
Astrid Andersen
Anderson, also looked to American hip-hop culture in the ’80s – early 90, but this time with a luxury sportswear feel. The looks were filled with humour, incorporating cropped tank tops and bomber jackets in yellow silk or camoflage. Lettering referenced American team strips and highlighted that a fun, light-hearted vibe is out in full force for A/W11-12.
